Bowl of Soup.

February 6, 2008

It should be crisp and clear but this English weather that has one eager for a scotch at day’s end.  And in between – that warm scotch and a warm home – a bowl of soup.

When I was little, and I fell ill, my grandmother would come running from Queens with her homemade chicken soup. I’ve never had one better – and I don’t have any at all now because even though I do think there is something restorative about that Jewish chicken soup, I’m not willing to sacrifice a chicken to make it.  But I am looking for a well-made, home-made, bowl of soup.

And here is where I recommend finding yours:

Katz Delicatessen for traditional Jewish soups
205 E Houston Street at Ludlow

Morimoto for miso andnoodle soups
88 10th Avenue, 15th & 16th Streets

KAI for miso soup and excellent sushi
822 Madison Ave,  68th  & 69th  Streets

Centolire for seasonal vegetarian soups.
1167 Madison Avenue at 85th Street

Exploration

January 21, 2008

“I’ll have a glass of Cab”
“I’ll have a glass of Chardonnay”

Don’t take the easy way out, who knows you might be nicely rewarded with self-discovery and actually smile!

My former college roommate who lives in Chicago was in town a few weeks ago and we were able catch up and talk over dinner one night. It was important that I saw him and spend time with him as he is one of the smartest people I know. He’s extremely inquisitive, a wonderful listener and amazingly observant, and he always has a way of asking thought provoking questions. Over dinner we discussed many things, from the story behind The Traveling Wilbury’s to his recent trip to Tokyo, studying Japanese design, to my experience-working crush on Howell Mountain this fall, we caught up on the last two years of our lives. When our professional careers came up in conversation he asked me rather bluntly why I was a wine director, asking, “What is the best part of your job?” “Why do you do what you do?”
It was the second question that really moved me, “Why do you do what you do?” Wow, what a strong thought, what an insightful thought… it really hit deep. I didn’t hesitate though, I responded from the heart as I often do, explaining, “I do this to open people’s minds to new experiences, letting them explore themselves and take chances… letting people smile.”
There is so much wonderful wine in this world and in this city that in order to really appreciate it you must explore and try something new. At the upper reaches of the culinary world, wine directors and restaurateurs take the time to build a beverage program in which exploration and self-discovery are healthy byproducts of their hard work. It is what makes this world go around, exploration. It is what sent Christopher Columbus, Jacques Cartier and Henry Hudson on their way… it is the ability to take a risk and try to discover something new.
Now you might be saying this guy is crazy, how is he going to try to relate the discovery of the Americas with trying a glass of wine that I have never had before? Well, you might be right, I might be crazy, but I believe that one’s ability to step out of their comfort zone is what makes them a pioneer each and everyday, the ability to try something new to expand their horizons. Next time you are out at a nice restaurant, don’t be afraid to explore, don’t take the easy way out… Try something new, who knows you might be nicely rewarded with self-discovery and actually smile!

Stephen Paul Mancini
Wine & Spirits Director
Union Square Cafe

Stephen Paul Mancini offers observations, advice, and information to guests of Union Square Cafe and readers of My Urban Sherpa.

I Heart NYC

January 14, 2008

All the hot date spots are perpetually booked in this town every night of the week as it is, making February 14 a veritable nightmare for an ill-prepared lover. Every year I see ladies racing to nail salons while the gentlemen scurry about trying to snag a fresh bouquet for their sweetheart. Valentine’s Day is upon us. This year we want you to be prepared.

Raoul’s

80 Prince Street (Sullivan & Thompson Streets) 212-966-3518

Try to snag a table in the back garden, but any seat will do at this staple Soho den of French romance. Raoul’s was the first hip place on Prince Street and will most likely be the last. If my date takes me here he get points just for having good taste in restaurants… and women.

The River Café

1 Water Street, Brooklyn  212-522-5200
This gem is located under the Brooklyn bridge lending patrons the most breathtaking views of Manhattan’s skyline short of flying past it via jet. I find it nearly impossible not to fall in love any time I dine here. Floor-to-ceiling windows, a grand piano and delicious fare are the recipe for a Valentine’s Day never to be forgotten.

Savoy

70 Prince Street (Crosby & Lafayette Streets)  212-219-8570
The fireplace crackles. The lights are dim. You can even reserve the chef’s special menu in advance, which will surely make an impression on your date.

Gramercy Tavern

42 East 20th Street (Park Avenue South & Broadway)  212-477-0777
Find sanctuary in NYC’s classiest tavern. The décor has a rustic charm providing a welcome escape from concrete Manhattan. The fine American cuisine will take your taste buds on a little trip as well, to lovers-land.

One If By Land, Two If By Sea

17 Barrow Street (7th Avenue South & W. 4th Street)  212-228-0822
One of New York’s most renowned romantic restaurants. This former carriage house features mood lighting, fire places, live piano and exposed brick walls. It is the perfect platform for a superb Valentine’s dinner.

Just because it is Valentine’s Day does not mean you have to break the bank. The following love-adept restaurants will have your date swooning, while keeping your wallet a little heavier:

Vespa

1625 2nd Avenue at 84th Street  212-472-2050
My favorite out-door garden in New York. A visit to Vespa is like being momentarily whisked off to Italy without the worry of jetlag or the bloody Euro. Don’t think just because it’s February the garden closes. Dozens of heat lamps keep you and your main squeeze warm while hearty pastas warm the belly and the heart. If it rains, not to worry, the inner décor is endearing and cozy. It is imperative not to miss the squash blossoms with goat cheese and citrus batter. They melt in your mouth like the kiss you’ll be having for desert.

Casimir

103 Avenue B. (6th & 7th Streets)  212-358-9683
This East Village French brasserie oozes with romance. It’s dimly lit with antique mirrors and old records lining the walls. There is a lounge area in the back if you want to sit back with a cocktail. I send everyone in need of a date spot here for some of the most superior mussels in Manhattan. At these prices, even the scattered service won’t deter you from getting romance-ready.

Cucina Italiana Paprika

110 St. Mark’s Place (1st Avenue & Avenue A)  212-677-6563
Prices are so reasonable at this cute comfort Italian on the always-exciting St. Mark’s Place that you might be able to splurge on extra roses.

Le Pere Pinard

175 Ludlow Street (Houston & Stanton Streets)  212-777-4917
This charming Lower East Side locale has all the appeal of a Paris bistro. Make sure to order the steak tartar, which is prepared tableside for a little entertainment followed by mouth-watering flavors.

Bar Jamon

125 East 17th Street @ Irving Place  212-253-2773
Snack on Spanish small plates at affordable prices created by the infamous chef Mario Batalli. If you and your honey enjoy ham, olives and wine then this place was made for you two.

Sarah Polonsky is a native New Yorker and journalist who has contributed to The New York Post, The National Enquirer, Life & Style and OK! Magazine. She happily shares her savoir faire and joie de vivre as an editor of My Urban Sherpa.

A vegan in New York?

December 13, 2007

What’s a vegan? Well…for starters, we don’t eat meat, chicken, fish, eggs,

dairy products, or any other animal-derived food. Of course, there’s much

more to this lifestyle than can be covered in a single blog post—e.g.,

vegans also don’t “wear” animals (wool, fur, leather, down, etc.)—but what

we’re here to report is that our fair city is nothing short of a vegan

paradise.

 

East Side or West Side, Uptown or Downtown…beneath NYC’s concrete façade

lies a vast array of strictly vegan eateries along with an incalculable

number of vegan-friendly establishments. Fast food, slow food, organic food,

raw food…no one does the vegan thing like NYC.

 

From A (Angelica Kitchen) to Z (Zen Palate), no major metropolis on the

Whole Earth (Bakery) can hold a Candle (Cafe) to Gotham City. You can even

make certain your shoes won’t Moo.

 

So, for those who may judge a city by how its subway smells, check your

preconceptions and your steaks at the door and get ready to take an

animal-free bite out of our Big Apple.

 

A list of vegan restaurants we recommend can be found at My Urban Sherpa.

Our vegan editor Mickey Z. can be found on the Web at http://www.mickeyz.net

 

New York City Steakhouses

October 8, 2007

A good steak meal does not come cheap, and not all steakhouses are created equal. New York has an overwhelming number of upscale steakhouses, so here’s some suggestions from our insiders for your next night out so you’ll be sure to have a good experience:

Best Steakhouse in New York (and you’ve heard of it):

Peter Luger Steakhouse, Brooklyn
178 Broadway
Brooklyn, NY
718-387-7400

We know that recommending Peter Luger is about as original as saying “when you’re in Paris, you should really see the Eiffel Tower,” but the fact is that it is simply the best. Despite the proliferation of steakhouses across the city, among New Yorkers who are real steak lovers, it still reigns supreme. The steak itself is usually perfect; they have the best meat available to mankind. There might be an infrequent miss but far less often than at other places. The steaks are usually cooked perfectly, because, for the most part, they just crank out medium-rare porterhouses and the waiters, who really know what they’re doing, make sure you get the right steak. Everything else is simple and delicious and, with an upscale beer hall atmosphere, it’s also a good time. Despite a reputation for gruffness, the owners and staff seem to have mellowed out – the service is actually excellent, the hosts are pleasant and reservations are indeed honored.

Getting to “Luger’s” isn’t as bad as you think. It’s just on the other side (from Manhattan) of the Williamsburg Bridge, so it’s a quick taxi ride. There’s also a subway stop (the J train) which is a 5 minute walk to the restaurant if you’re trying to get there during rush hour. To get back to Manhattan, they’ll call you a car which will cost around $20. Luger’s will cost you a bit less than most Manhattan steakhouses, so the extra transportation cost is not a big deal.

A couple of insider’s tips:

They really don’t take credit cards, so bring cash (most visitors are incredulous). However, if you actually show up without the cash and eat your meal, they will indeed accept a credit card – don’t expect to make any friends though.

Peter Luger has an outpost in Great Neck, Long Island (not too far from the city) which has just as good food in a more pleasant setting. If you’re on your way back from the Hamptons or in town for the U.S. Open, it might be worth checking out.

Best Steakhouses You May Not Have Heard of:

Ben and Jack’s
219 E. 44th St.
(bet. 2nd & 3rd Aves.)
Manhattan, NY
212-682-5678

Of all the Peter Luger clones which have popped up in Manhattan over the past several years, this one is the best so far. It’s right near Grand Central and in a very comfortable, though not too glamorous setting. The menu is identical to Peter Luger, the food is nearly as good, the service is fine and the location can’t be beat. Though, it has yet to stand the test of time (opened in 2006), it is currently as good as it gets in Manhattan.

Blair Perrone Steakhouse
885 Second Avenue
(bet. 47th & 48th Sts.)
Manhattan, NY
212-796-8000

Another Peter Luger spin-off, Blair Perrone is probably the nicest and most comfortable steakhouse in Manhattan. They inherited an enormous, beautiful space from the failed Ruth’s Chris East Side along with Ruth’s Chris’ signature 1800° oven which gives them a culinary advantage. The food is all around very good and the place is extremely nice and grand – a bit more women friendly as well. The location is very convenient (48th and 2nd) but just enough out of the fray that it’s typically not a problem getting in. Given the setting and the quality of the food, this place can’t be beat. Let’s just hope they get enough traffic to stay in business.

Strip House
13 E. 12th St.
(bet. 5th Ave. and University Pl.)
Manhattan, NY
212-328-0000

A bit different from the others as it is not a Luger’s clone, the Strip House is the best of the rest. Though not a NY original, the steak and all the food is fantastic including the non-traditional gourmet adaptations of the side dishes. The bordello-themed restaurant is actually very women-friendly and good for a date (it’s a place where a group of women might feel comfortable by themselves). Essentially, it’s a great steakhouse disguised as a nice restaurant. For a true “guys night out” you may want to stick to the other choices. The Greenwich Village location may also be appealing to some.

Wolfgang’s Tribeca
409 Greenwich St.
(bet. Beach and Hubert Sts.)
Manhattan, NY
212-925-0350

If you’re way downtown, this is the place to go. The original Wolfgang’s (at 33rd and Park) was the first Luger’s spin-off/clone. The food there is excellent but the place is so cramped, it’s to be avoided. The newer sister location in Tribeca, however, is spacious and vibrant. With the same excellent food and a trendy atmosphere, this is a very good downtown choice.

Places to Avoid (where you might otherwise be tempted to go):

BLT Prime

If you want to go people watching while in NY, there are plenty of bars and clubs you can go to when your dinner is over. This place is noisy, crowded and terrible. It is run by and frequented by people who wouldn’t know and don’t care what makes a good restaurant let alone a good steakhouse. On top of that, it’s actually more expensive than its competitors (as if that were possible).

Spark’s Steakhouse

“Inedible” is the only word which comes to mind. One of New York’s most celebrated steakhouses (and highly rated by other sources), in front of which mob boss Paul Castellano was assassinated, is actually not very good. Steaks are over salted to cover up substandard meat and the place really caters to its regulars not visitors. Too many choices these days to waste your time and money here.

Del Frisco’s

This may be the noisiest restaurant in New York. Nothing wrong with the food, but you may want to experience Del Frisco’s in another city (especially since it’s not a NY original).

About our Steakhouse Editor:

Jay Weiss is a lifelong New Yorker. He is a management consultant, not a professional food critic. He lives in Manhattan and eats a lot of steak.

Fall is birthday season

September 19, 2007

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Fall is birthday season at my house. This means birthday parties to host, birthday presents to give, and my birthday to celebrate. And it means a lovely succession of dinners out. This all takes quite a bit of planning and starts with a list of excellent places to shop and eat. Here is my list of indispensable birthday resources.

For entertaining at home stop at Zabar’s … where you can plan a menu around their wonderful selection of breads, cheeses, prepared foods, and wonderful selection of fresh produce for the do-it-yourselfers.

Gifts for the science-minded preteen are easily found at the AMNH shop, for the fashionable at Berkley Girl, and for the fun at Agatha Ruiz de la Prada.

Young nieces and nephews and their development-oriented parents will adore gifts from Yoyamart and Kid O.

Goodie bags are easily assembled at Dylan’s and E.A.T. The Store, where selection, convenience and fun come at a price. Bargain hunters can put together a fun goodie-bag at Target and H&M.

Children receive an enormous number of gifts, more than can be enjoyed by any one child in any given year. These gifts are best shared with Evan’s Life Foundation, a wonderful 501c3 that distributes gifts to children for Christmas who will not perhaps have any other gifts to open.

For the discerning stepmother, restaurant reservations are best made at Bouley, Fedia, or Esca if followed by theatre tickets. Here the food, décor and service will all be excellent.

For an Atkins dad, Peter Luger for steak, Milos for cooked fish, and Sushi Yasuda – for sushi will not disappoint. Here the food and the service will impress, and the noise levels permit audibility.

For bestfriends, where a quiet moment is found tete-a-tete at lunch, Four Seasons.

And for a casual and celebratory dinner for oneself, uptown choose Centolire, downtown choose Prune and in the middle – though not midtown – choose Union Square. If you take your birthdays as seriously as an adult as one does as a child – choose all three.

Wine rack at Tuscan Square

The other day I spent a few moments looking at the wine racks at Tuscan Square. I’d spent a lovely evening there and was waiting for a friend to collect his things, so I looked at the wine bottles in the racks by the front door. There were wines I’d tasted, wines I’d heard of, wines I hadn’t, and wines that were old favorites – ones I’d discovered in Italy, several I’d fallen for and bought cases of, and several I’d made meals around – or more accurately, several that had rounded my cooking into meals.

And I felt a special fondness for the wines whose company I had enjoyed. I love trying wines, but I prefer the anticipation of enjoying a wine I’ve enjoyed before, because added to the present pleasure of drinking the wine at that moment, I add the recollections of the meals and the conversations that I enjoyed in the past with that wine.

In this vein, I wondered why there is so much interest in the “new” when there is so much satisfaction in the “tried and true.” A most common introduction to the choice of restaurant seems to be “have you tried…?” and here I’d like to suggest a list of places you might frequent that have been frequented by locals for years.

Beyoglu
1431 3rd Avenue @ 81st Street , (212) 650-0850
Excellent Mediterranean fare with a huge selection of tasty vegetable dishes and dips, grilled and skewered meats and fish, and delicate Turkish wines to enhance. Cafe seating, a quiet second floor, and attentive service compliment the meal.

i Trulli
122 East 27th Street @ Park & Lexington , (212) 481-7372
Sublime Italian cuisine, wine, and service in the dining room or, more casually, in the enoteca. With wine tastings and classes from time to time.

Milos Estiatorio
125 West 55th Street @ 6th & 7th Avenues , (212) 245-7400
In this beautiful, open, and elegant space you are served wonderfully fresh fish and produce, accompanied by a spectacular wine list. The Greek wines are delicious as are the desserts. If you are too tired to go out for dinner, but are looking forward to seeing your friends, or must entertain clients, the pace, decor, and offerings of Milos will revive you.

Shabu Shabu
314 East 70th Street @ 2nd Avenue , (212) 861-5635
This small, friendly Japanese restaurant has been a family favorite for more than twenty years. With its fresh produce, delicate preparations, and attentive service in a room where you can hear your tablemates perfectly (but no one else), this may soon be one of your favorite neighborhood restaurants as well.

Tuscan Square
16 West 51st Street, Rockefeller Center, (212) 977-7777
Pino Luongo’s (well-earned fame from Le Madre, Coco Pazzo, Centolire & numerous and notable Tuscan cookbooks, most recently La Mia Cucina Toscana) Midtown restaurant for authentic Italian fare in a rustic dining room, or to go in your own environs. The food is delicious, the portions are generous and the service is attentive. One of the best choices in Midtown for lunch or dinner.

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It is so delicious to be outside, and despite the damaging effects of the sun at noon, perhaps you want nothing more than to lunch al fresco. Better yet, wait until the end of the day, and enjoy an evening plein d’or in New York.

A short list we’ll be adding to of both conveniently located outdoor spots and destination spots for enjoying this gorgeous spring weather.

Bryant Park has several options for dining outdoors at the moment, all with complimentary Wi-fi. (Thank you Bryant Park :-)

Bryant Park Grill: the food is ok but the atmosphere – lively, open and green is great. If you’ve got children in tow, don’t miss the beautiful little carousel at the southwest corner of the park.

‘wichcraft: delicious to go options of soup, salad or sandwich from Tom Colicchio combined with tables and umbrellas supplied by Bryant Park or the green lawn for reclining (no shade).

Central Park:
The Loeb Boathouse offers a lovely setting with fine food, great for a drink and a gondola ride or a paddle about.

Leaping Frog Cafe at the Central Park Zoo is delightfully clean, healthful and affordable (in comparison with a little snack at any nearby eatery). Indoor and outdoor tables shaded with thick wisteria vines, lovely ambience for your peanut butter and jelly on wheat toast with a side of goldfish and an unrecognizable fruit concoction in a plastic zoo animal you will not able to get away without.

Madison Square Park
Shake Shack is now open 11 am to 11 pm for all kinds of burgers (ham, cheese and Portobello mushroom), shakes and fries. Located in Madison Square Park, where you can also see a great sculpture installation of Roxy Paine’s. Thank you Madison Square Park for the Wi-Fi :-)

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I am a vegetarian. I love to eat. And though I would be happy to lose a little weight, I am not on a diet…

New York is aplenty with restaurants; we have Asian, French, Greek, Indian, Italian, Jewish, Russian, Turkish, Vietnamese, Vegetarian and Vegan – but we don’t have many mainstream restaurants that offer vegetarians a choice of dishes. The majority of restaurants offer one vegetarian, uninspired dish that assumes the diner is dieting. Many restaurants offer no vegetarian choices. Typically a request for a vegetarian dish is accommodated – but not cheerfully nor well.

If you are vegetarian, whatever your motivation – compassion, environmental impact, health, religion… I’d like to share you with a small (sadly, it is a small) list of mainstream restaurants where you’ll find a delicious and healthful meal of vegetables and grains. This is not say that I don’t recommend the wonderful vegetarian and vegan restaurants in town; Angelica Kitchen, Candle Café, Candle 79, Hangawi, Pure Food, Zen Palate…but this list of restaurants offers carnivores and vegetarians tasty meals together.

I hope this list will grow.

Centolire

1167 Madison Avenue @ 85th Street, 212.734.7711
Italian food is a good choice for vegetarians in the mainstream. We can always make an entrée of the veggie sides. At this Upper East Side restaurant you’ll find ample choices, starting with a delicious Caesar salad (without anchovies), zucchini soup with basil, eggplant parmigiana, daily vegetable risotto, pasta with tomato sauce…

Josie’s

300 Amsterdam Avenue, @ 74th Street, 212.769.1212
Meals of organic produce and free-range animals enable vegetarians and vegans to dine alongside compassionate carnivores seamlessly.

Milos

125 West 55th Street, 6th & 7th Avenues, 212.245.7400
This Greek restaurant in midtown is reputed for their fish, artfully prepared and beautifully displayed. Milos also offers vegetarians lovely choices as well: Greek salad, fava beans, roasted peppers, hummus…to pair with delicate Greek wines (let the sommelier guide you).

Prune

54 East 1st Street, 1st & 2nd Avenues, 212.677.6221
There is a larger variety of animals and organs on the menu here than even carnivores are accustomed to. And there is a great selection of delicious vegetables and grains to choose from.

Union Square Café

21 East 16th Street, 5th Avenue & Union Square West, 212.243.4020
The Indian-spiced vegetables and grains are wonderful. You’ll leave with their cookbook so you can recreate the meal at home. The menu is peppered with vegetarian choices – all made from seasonal organic produce and delicious.